The next decade....what's in store?
Musings of a yamfooted traveller still trying to shake off those last 20 pounds as she treks across the Caribbean
Some incidents occured last night which made me say "Phew!"
1. Flight from St Kitts to Antigua was delayed so my travelling companion, her 4 year old daughter and I had to amuse ourselves in the deserted St Kitts airport. My request to the daughter to repeat the pirouette (twirl) she had done earlier, lead to boodoof, tears and paralysis with fear. The first two were the daughter, who fell boof and then started to cry, and the fear was the adults whose hearts were beating so loudly, I'm sure they could be heard in the airport.
2. Got a lift from my companion to the hotel I was staying at (don't stay there - The Amaryllis). Since I had not made a reservation, she suggested I come out and find out if they had rooms, before taking my cases out the car. They had rooms so suitcases came out of trunk, she left and I went to check in. Finished the process and I looked down and thought "where is my hand luggage".
Well Twat (me) had left it in the front where I had it, when I got out to check if they had rooms, and Twat forgot to take it out.
The dilemna? Mi neva know whey fi find the lady! Tried to call our mutual friends in St Kitts but of course, since their hotel is not yet opened, nobody would answer the phone. Called the hotel in Antigua where she worked; same thing. That hotel not opened, so no live voice. What fi do? My fear was that because the bag was black and was on the floor, she might not have seen it.
I went up to the (small, sqush up, bare) room and planned to wake up at 7:00am to call St Kitts to get her number. As luck would have it, the telephone rang, there she was on the line and we arranged that she would come at 8:20am this morning and drop me at the airport one time.
After she hung up, I quite rightly said "Phew!"
Many moons ago, I set a goal of visiting all Caribbean islands during my lifetime. So most of my holidays were taken to these Jewels, and I also lived on two (Bahamas and Grenada). Earlier this year, I had planned my 2004 holiday (mi is very previous!) and had planned to stop in St Kitts and Anguilla after the Antigua test match. But as luck would have it, Sir Alex moved here in October and I was allowed a stop over on this ticket, so decided to stop on my way back to Jamaica from Trinidad.
I wanted to cuss Sir Alex after seeing St Kitts on my first day, Thursday 20 November. "Why you never tell me to stay longer?" I asked him. Well I guess there will have to be a next time.
Because I arrived at midday Thursday, there was enough time to drive around the island and to stop at Rawlins Plantation to have tea. Here, the birds have tea with you, and if you mind sharp (a Grenadian expression) the huge lizzards would join you too. Oh, no, they fraid big people.
Later that night, it was time to visit THE restaurant in St Kitts....Marshall's. Remember him? Those of you who had tea in Le Pavillion at the Jamaica Pegasus in the early 90's would be sure to. Well, he has carried the same enthusiasm over here and this has translated into a lovely restaurant with fabulous food and nice ambience.
Set around a pool at the Horizon Villas, there are an abundance of servers, so waiting is not a possibility. I had crab as an appetizer and salmon for main course. Melt in your mouth salmon....most people over cook fish. Not Marshall, who by the way, is the chef. I said to him "Marshall, I never knew you could cook". He said "Neither did I", then he explained to me the problems he had getting good chefs, even those who came from abroad didn't work out. So, if you can't find anybody to do it like how you want it, then do it yourself. So he did.
At one moment, I was left alone at the table while he went to attend to a guest, and I sat there thinking how fortunate I am to be able to have these experiences.
Read more about these experiences in the posts below and in a few days, I will post pictures. Ok? Ok.
FRIDAY 21 NOVEMBER 2003 12:08PM ON ST KITTS
Am now sitting on the upper deck of Caribe Surf Voyager - the ferry that will take me to Nevis. Lordy it's hot up here but I'm suffering because I want to get the best view. Hopefully it will leave on time. A cruise ship is in today so there are probably a few tourists from that on board, along with some locals, who speak like Jamaicans with a bad patois. In the background, a Carlene Davis gospel record is playing.
The engines have started up. Let's roll (and get burnt)
1:05 PM ON NEVIS
Unella's By The Sea. That's where I'm having lunch today before I trek to Four Seasons, trek back then catch a taxi to Fothergills Heritage Village. Those are the 2 places I need to visit. Then maybe, if I have time, I'll go to the Botanical Gardens. Oh, I need to go to the museum too. As I travel, I'm trying to learn more about these Caribbean Jewels. We are rich....we just don't know it.
I've ordered Stewed Chicken. Hope it's good.
2:45PM FOUR SEASONS HOTEL
After a scrumptious lunch at Unella's (I cleaned the plate!) , I crossed the road and waited, and waited, and waited, for a bus to take me to this hotel which is often written up in magazines as the epitome of luxury. From the rates and the lobby, it sure must be! I'm waiting to look at a bedroom. Every body who can show me is in a meeting (so the lady at the desk said).
I've seen a couple who was on the ferry over from St Kitts with me. And I'm now looking at a lady who I am sure was also on the ferry. Wonder what she does here? Looks like she works here. Took a walk down to where she disappeared to, and saw that she works in Villa Sales. Imagine how expensive those must be.
Well, that entry was written at 2:45pm, a good 15 minutes after I first went to the desk to ask to see a room. Check out what happened next.
The telephone operator had told me to wait about 20 minutes. After 25 minutes, went to find out if they were finished. There was a manager named Lennard Markezic at the desk and he said they were still there and he was alone, he was sorry, would I mind waiting longer. Sure no problem. My middle name is Job. At 3:20pm, I go to tell the ladies working across from Lennard (he was busy) that I really can't wait much longer and explained to them what had happened. They exclaimed and tried to see what they could do. One of them walked me back over to Lennard and I told him I had waited a very long time and told him that I didn't believe that there was no one in the entire resort apart from those in the meeting, that could show me just ONE room. Says he "let me see if there is anyone in Reservations". Bingo. Out comes Gary within 5 minutes. So you tell me, why de H-E-Two Stick (L L) I had to wait so long? The Mookoot couldn't think of that before?
Well, when I was telling Hilary the taxi lady who took me back to Charlestown this, she said " I bet if you were white, they wouldn't have taken that long". I told her that I was trying hard not to think that. She said that things happen sometimes that make you wonder. I heard later that the GM, who I was planning to write (Robert Whitfield), don't like black people. Hmmmm.
No sweat. They just won't get my business. No, I might not be able to afford to stay there now (the cheapest room at this time of year is US$425 ++ Room only) but when I can, they won't get my business. And the rooms aren't all that. The jacuzzis at Spice Island Beach Resort are much much larger than these. I found the suite I looked at to be pretty ordinary. They are probably living off their past reputation.
Back in Charlestown, Hilary agrees that it is now too late to go to Fothergills Heritage Village. So I wander around, go to the market to see if there is any fruit or vegetable that I don't know (no), pop into the ice cream store (yes, I know, I should have walked past), and pop into a book store where I chat with Mr Tyrell the owner who says I look responsible so I can come inside even though I am eating. Bought some newspapers and a magazine, went and read in a little garden and ate the ice cream while I waited on the 5pm ferry.
The ferry came on time, I hopped on, saw that same gorgeous 2nd officer who was on it from St Kitts and then saw the telephone operator from Four Seasons who was heading over to stay with her daughter. Just a different way of life. Of course, I told her that I was disappointed to have to wait so long.
Back on St Kitts, Sir Alex is on time to collect me. It was his birthday today. Not that he paid it much attention. His name is not MichMac!
Well, tomorrow is Brimstone Hill Fortress day. Everybody has told me it's a must see sight. We shall see.
SATURDAY 22 NOVEMBER 11:45 AM ON ST KITTS
Got a lift into town. Planned to check out the Museum. Shucks, it's closed for refurbishment. Went to the St Christopher Heritage place to read about birds, flora, fauna, bush medicine and restoration of heritage sites.
Next, hopped on a bus headed for Sandy Point, to go to Brimstone Hill Fortress - a must-see place in St Kitts. Sat in the bus for a while as the driver waited for passengers. Finally it was time to move off. But wait....de door still open and it have no conductor to close it. No worries; as he moved off, the door slid into the locked position.
Got off at the Fortress and proceeded to walk the 1/2 mile UPHILL. When I had reached just a little way, a man in a van (probably named Dan!) stopped to ask if I wanted a lift. I paused, thinking that I really needed the exercise. But I listened to myself huffing and puffing and took him up on his offer.
He gave me a little political story about St Kitts and dropped me off at the Visitors Centre. Watched a short tape on the history of this Fortress, built by I think the British in the 17th century. Walked around the place. Very well kept and they are in the process of more restoration. Lovely, gorgeous, stunning views. This echoes the sentiments of those who wrote in the Visitors Book. I leafed through the pages and if there were 20 Caribbean people amongst the 200 or so, there were plenty. Very disappointing that more people don't take Caribbean holidays. We are quick to run off to Miami and New York, but spend very little time learning about our Caribbean neighbours.
Went to the shop, bought a drink, the man asked me where I was from (common question), walked around some more, bought stuff from the souvenir shop and started the trek down the hill, which by the way was not 1/2 mile. But it's down hill, so no problem.
On the way down, took more photos of flora and fauna and then encountered two young girls, one of whom asked me if I was coming from the "top top top". Yes, I said. She asked how long it took me. I said about 10 - 15 minutes. They were huffing and puffing. I asked them if they were doing a school project and they said yes.
Then I began to think that we never did those things in school. You have to wonder if teachers are trained to use different methods to teach, to appeal to all our senses. How fun would it have been for us to go on a trip to St Thomas to visit the site of the Rebellion, or a former slave plantation etc. Instead, we were stuck in a classroom learning facts. This will be the difference in my teaching.
At the bottom of the hill, I flagged down a minibus. But there was only the driver and one man in front, so I asked "Is this a bus bus?". Man mussi tink mi chupid. But you know, one has to ask if one doesn't know. He drove at break neck speak so we got back to Basseterre rather quickly.
I pondered how I would get back to Frigate Bay, and started to walk in that direction. Came upon a taxi and decided to take it. The walk would have been too long.
So that's Saturday on St Kitts. Later, we will go to a restaurant named Sprat Net in Old Road (the first capital of St Kitts I believe). Licking my lips.
Travelled up from Trinidad to St Kitts, through Antigua yesterday. Some titbits about that journey.
Got to the airport at around 6:05am for a 7:00am flight. Well I was travelling First Class so I was allowed (I think). After seeing the dapper Captain Hi-Tech all decked out in his Captain's outfit (jacket and all), I mosied up to the counter, where the agent told me I had to get the ticket rewritten, since I had changed it to stop over in Antigua (to get to St Kitts). I huffed and asked her why they didn't tell me that when I called them to make the change. No apology. She just sent me down to the lady, Miss Archibald who was slow like molasses. I thought that Sis needed to be the ticketing person on a morning like this.
Also had to pay "a lil US$5.00" for some reason which I couldn't understand. BWIA. They never fail to amaze me. Enough time left to go to duty free to get a bottle of rum for Sir Alex (and chocolate for me, but then you didn't hear that did you!). On the flight I am sat beside a man who works at Glean International who also came off in Antigua. Overheard him telling another fella that the pickings were slim in Antigua so it was going to be a quiet weekend for him!
Also spotted on the plane was the doctor mother of a uni friend, so chatted to her before de-planing. When I was going off, the Purser asked me if I forgot I was coming off in Antigua!
After checking in on Caribbean Star, was walking in to the departure area where I spotted Dean, the LIAT pilot who took me from Trinidad to Grenada the last time. He was with Fitzroy, the Flight Attendant, who did tek a shine to me.
Inside the departure area, I decided that I should eat. Well is a good thing the stomach wasn't growling that loudly. The poor attendant was by himself, having to deal with a whole heap of people. Not good. I probably waited for about 20 - 30 mins before I could give him my order.
Went over to the record shop where the owner gives me a big hello. I look at him quizzically. Then he reminds me where he met me. Crowne Plaza Trinidad. He gave me a newspaper for free. The first thing I said to him was that there should be another person serving food. He immediately called the Supervisor and made me tell him. Apparently record man had just called him and told him the very same thing.
The flight is called, it's free seating - nice seats - and the flight is uneventful. The airport in St Kitts is empty so I get through immigration and customs in a jiffy. Only had to wait about 5 mins before Sir James arrived.
Wow. Interesting landscape on this island. Pure sugar cane. No exaggeration. Next, will tell you about what I've been doing here.
Don't expect any regular updates for a little while cause I won't have ready access to the internet. So here's what you can do.....go and look through the archives and read all that you haven't yet read. That will take you awhile!
Pictures from my boat trip today
This was on a catamaran called Starwind V. Enjoy.
Before you look at these really gorgeous pictures , read the story 'Sunday Outing' first....the pictures will make more sense.
Just a beautiful island. Do enjoy!
...I would be a Wide Receiver!
(Would much rather be a Tight End though!)
Go Hokies!
After getting the hire car changed to a jeep because of a strange noise (could be the fan belt they said), I wended my way along meandering roads, up to Grand Etang to get to Grenville, then up to Tivoli towards Hermitage.
After descending Grand Etang, I saw a Detour sign because the Birchgrove bridge is not yet finished being repaired or built. The turn off took me through Beauregard where I bucked up on guess what? Dead manicous. Wild meat. The man had 3 or 4 of them holding by the scruff of their tails, their insides taken out, mouth wide open. I had to stop. I had tasted it before (yuck) but never seen them before cooking. Even yuckier. But I took a pic for you all to see (watch for it and more in a couple days). Imagine the man was charging me EC$5 to take the pictures of some dead animals. I just promptly told him that was not on. So I got it for free.
Drove and drove and drove endlessly, past Grenville, past the old Pearls airport, up to Tivoli, then started asking directions to Belmont Estate. Found it.
Bucked up some family friends who were powerless so they came out to lunch, chit chatted, got a lovely mango, and insect repellant. Sand flies like flies! And I had on shorts, for I thought there was a river on the estate that I could go wading in. No such luck.
Got a tour. Saw the way cocoa beans are processed, drank some cocoa tea (it's nicer how Villy does it with the coconut milk), looked at how the Grenadian owners used to live. Mr Nyack was a smart man. He bought the estate in 1944, and then the war came. The world stop buying nutmeg from Grenada, but Nyack didn't stop buying from local farmers. He piled a room tight tight tight with nutmeg, which, if stored properly can keep for years. So guess what? After war, demand rose, and guess who had all the nutmegs?
I took pictures of a page in his payroll book from the 1950's, the receipt for the $35,000 pounds he paid for it, and some other things, so look out for those.
Then there's the little monkey. Cute thing who knew he was the centre of attention. Ran and knocked off all the flower pots off the railing of the gift shop....then made a beeline towards my leg! I thought the claws would have been sharp, but not so. He was just wet, as it had rained earlier.
Left and continued driving northwards up to Sauteurs. On the way I passed where I interviewed Devon Smith , and saw the sign for the Chocolate Factory. Larr says their chocolate is the best, so I bought a bar. Didn't eat it though. Will give it away and beg for a square!
Heading back down to Grand Anse on the western coast, I came upon a political meeting about to start in Victoria. Traffic, traffic and more traffic. The street dem si-mall. While waiting on the road to clear, I saw the Minister of Labour who Villy knows, so chit chatted. Hmmmm, I could have told him some labour stories after my recent experience but common sense prevailed.
The sun was setting as I drove down, and the reflection on the water was just gorgeous. This is one pretty little island. You all have to discover it. If you like cricket, plan to come for the one day match next April 28 (WI vs England), then stay on a few days to see the beauty of Grenada.
I was about to exercise when I did the last entry 'Before Exercise'. Did a couple minutes on the treadmill and then went to the sea. Gosh, this is a gorgeous country. It was about sunset, so nearly dark. Just picture perfect. But looks can be deceiving as I discovered after wading into the water, glasses and all.
You walk into the sea for a bit, then buff....the bottom of the ocean gets very soft and your feet starts to go down...down...down. Imagine it. It's dark and you can't see the bottom. Coward Michelle got out and walked further up in the direction of the Aliens hotel and tried the same thing. No different. Well, can't say I never went into Grand Anse sea (first time in the two trips here).
Went back over to my abode and went to the pool. I haven't actually put my head under water and held my breath for many many years. Long story. So when I tried it last night, it sure was a strange feeling. Anyway, I persevered and eventually was doing laps across the (shallow end of the) pool (mi fraid mi drown). Got the heart rate up, and the appetite going.
Where to go to get food? Let's try Le Chateau. Ordered a salad. "Can I get it with cheddar cheese please?" We don't have cheddar cheese. "What kind of cheese you have?" Anchor! I smile inside.
After 1/2 hour, it don't come yet. I ask the lady to find out if they start making it yet. No. No??? Well cancel it then. OK, let's try Kentucky. No go. Line too long and drive through not working. The food court in Spice Land Mall was next. I walked up to Antonio's only to see probably Antonio himself, using his hand to scoop out the rice! I turned around immediately.How about Rick's Cafe for some chicken. Too many people, line long. By this time, the Cinnamon gelato I had bought from La Boulangerie was probably melting, so had to find food quick.
Think Mich. Where satisfied many a hunger late at night when you were living here? Fish & Chick. A greasy joint with all manner of people and the most stoned faced bartender (I guess you would call her a BarTough) in the world. But got my chicken in a jiffy, along with a Fanta and raced on 'home'.
Why? My football team, the Hokies (from Virginia Tech), were playing on Survival Saturday. They whooped Miami Hurricane, the #2 ranked team 31 - 7, so they survived. I still don't understand the game but sure do know what a touchdown is.
Right now, I'm about to go to Belmont Estate in the north eastern end of Grenada. It's a working plantation so that will be pretty interesting. Will let you know all about it.
Ta Ra (a la Cilla Black)
So after that lazy day yesterday, it was time for a little more productivity today. Not a better way to start it than with Breakfast at Brigitte's. Lots of protein as I like it, and generally a chill out morning. The kind of thing we probably would have liked to have done while we worked together but couldn't because we worked opposite each other.
After brekky, it was on the road to the NEW plaza to pay some bills and for me to buy some fruits. Then we had to drop off baby Dominique who had by now fallen asleep. Hmmmmm, she obviously hasn't got into the Saturday shopping routine that Mothers and Daughters usually get into when the kid is old enough. I went through mine with Villy and Sis, which included usually a stop at Lynzilee in Welcome Plaza.
More driving around to another shopping centre where we did some stuff, saw Lenworth's girls and sampled Deelishus juices. Locally grown. A little too sweet but I bought three teeny tiny boxes (same size like what Nice and Nuff milk - from school feeding programme - used to come in at St George's). Then I was dropped off and decided after the lunch yesterday, today had to be a salad.
They made the salad zactly how I wanted it. See, that's how you get satisfied guests. By giving people zactly what they expect, want and desire. It's not rocket science you know (tell that to the Aliens). Settled down to read some magazines and watch TV.
What magazine? Shape. One of those that the siblings say I read in hope that the effects take place by osmosis, since I don't get off my butt often enough. What show? "What not to wear" on TLC. They were making over this girl who was 24 and looked more like 16.
Hmmm.....where have I heard that before? Looking younger than one really is. Wonder if I could get on that show too? The stylists did everything for her. Threw out her clothes, which she has had for several years. Very familiar. The blouse I wore for my birthday dinner, I bought in January 1998 for the wedding that I flew back home for just after starting work here. The top I wore to cocktails last Wednesday, was a Link top (designer = T Tomlinson)....one of those from The Green Grip (that story is in the archives). I had that top before I moved to Grenada, and that was September 1997. 6 years old? Yup. But I didn't think it was out of style. Well that's what the makeover gurus told the Nashville girl on the show...even if the clothes fit from a long time ago, you got to throw them out!
Next, they worked on the hair. She had worn it in the same style for most of her life. Dull and boring. Hmmmm, another similarity. Well maybe not. I have alternated between fro and processed straight hair, and between fro and texturized hair for the last 10 years or so. So there has been SOME change. Now I'm back to the fro - the kind that stays close to your head even though the strands of hair are at least....hold on leh me check.....ouch!.....3/4 to 1 inch long. I fear that if I go and texturize it, just to stretch out the strands a little but keep the curl, I will end up looking like the chicken head that hairdresser in Jamaica gave me this summer and made me have to chop it off and start all over again. So for now, it will remain natural.
Then there was the make up make over. Well at least I pluck my eyebrows. Once every 2 months or so! Make up? Nah. A lil lipstick and maybe some face powder. No eye shadow (makes no sense under glasses), no foundation (I have nice skin...no need for such and I don't need to hide my freckles) and no blush - well maybe blush once or twice a year. I'm really not bothered at all about makeup. Something on my lips is a must though, even if it's lip gloss.
So I sat there watching the transformation of this girl, and reading my SHAPE magazine at the time and thought that I need a transformation of my own. The clothes part is taken care off, for I am accompanying the parents to Florida later this month (charge it!!!!!!!! - even if I don't have a credit card)...I just need to work on the hair and the bod.
Spurred into action, I put on my new two piece swim suit (bought in Kilburn, London, on a great shopping spree just before departing the Motherland for good). Yes. Even at my size, I don't particularly like one pieces.
I say "even at my size" but you know, several people here have commented on how much weight I have lost, including the waiter at a restaurant I went to last Monday who used to work at Spice. Brigitte says it's because I seeing myself everyday why I don't think I look that different.
Decided that I would go and do 30 minutes exercise in the gym first, then go swim (as if I can swim), so that's what I'm off to do. Toodle Doo.
Oh, those of you in the hotel business, please guess and tell Larr what the grrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeeeat news the owner of the hotel I am staying gave me yesterday.